If ever there was a place to leave the modern world behind, it’s Cove Harbour. From the clifftop at the village of Cove, the wide bay showcases eroded ridges and jagged outcrops of sandstone and limestone millions of years old, but the true attraction is hidden from view.
We could just glimpse the shoreline around the headland below, but you’d never guess what a hidden gem it is without making the walk down the steep coastal trail. Keith and I followed the long sloping path, sea breeze in our faces, until we found ourselves stepping into a scene that felt centuries away. Nestled into a rocky embrace on Scotland’s southeast coast, this tiny fishing haven has a secret, timeless charm that greets you the moment you arrive.
Fishing boats have sheltered here since the 1600s, first in a natural inlet and later behind sturdy stone piers built in the early 1800s. Even today, a couple of small vessels still land their catch of crab and lobster, keeping Cove’s maritime spirit alive.
One of the most fascinating features is the tunnel that cuts through the headland to the south side of the harbour. Hand-carved in the 18th century (with tool marks still visible on the walls), the tunnel is long, narrow, and just a little eerie as you walk through, with only a faint glimmer of daylight at the far end. Keith and I had no idea where it would lead, but curiosity pulled us forward.
Our footsteps echoed on the stone walls, and for a moment it felt like we’d stumbled into a smugglers’ passage. When we finally stepped out into the light, we found ourselves on a small, isolated beach revealed at low tide – a hidden world we hadn’t expected to discover. Perfectly framed by the tranquil natural harbour on one side and a couple of cottages nestled against the base of the cliff on the other. It was one of those moments in travel where surprise makes the memory all the sweeter.
Beyond the breakwater, which suffered storm damage in 2024 and is still under restoration at one end, a natural red sandstone arch rises from the shore, and small tidal pools linger between the layered Carboniferous-era rocks thrusting upwards from the Cove fault.
Cove isn’t flashy and that’s half its magic. There’s nothing here but a few small boats, views out to the open sea beyond the secluded harbour walls, and the sound of gentle waves lapping against the breakwater. Keith and I stayed awhile, just watching the tide and feeling wrapped in the raw beauty of the coast – it was the kind of peaceful moment that makes you forget time altogether.
But this quiet setting also carries the weight of history. Cove was hit hard in the Eyemouth Disaster of 1881, when a violent storm struck fishing fleets all along the coast. Eleven of Cove’s twenty-one fishermen were lost at sea that day, leaving the small community devastated. A memorial on the cliff top honours their memory – a reminder of the courage and hardship that shaped this little harbour.
Today, Cove harbour remains privately owned and carefully protected, its pier cottages listed for their historic importance. There are no shops, no cafés, no distractions – just a quaint, timeless haven where you can imagine centuries of seafaring life unfolding.
For us, Cove Harbour felt like discovering a secret pocket of Scotland’s past. Hidden, humble, and deeply atmospheric, it’s the kind of place that stays with you long after you’ve left.
Mapgirl Adventures 
Leave a comment