Mapgirl Adventures

If there’s one place in Scotland that knows how to absolutely steal the show in autumn, it’s Perthshire. They don’t call it “Big Tree Country” for nothing! This region is home to more champion trees that are the largest of their species than anywhere else in the UK. Over 200,000 acres of woodland stretch out in every direction… basically a dream come true for leaf-peepers and wanderers like us.

We can thank the Victorian-era plant collectors and adventurous landowners of the 1800s for this leafy wonderland. People like David Douglas, the man behind the Douglas fir, traveled the world to collect trees that now tower over the Scottish countryside. So, if you’ve ever wanted to feel tiny and awestruck at the same time, this is your place!

And when autumn arrives? Oh my. Perthshire transforms into a swirling, shimmering sea of golds, oranges, and deep earthy browns. We explored three incredible woodland walks that are easily accessible and popular but still managed to steal our hearts with their scenic beauty.

The Hermitage – A Fairytale Forest Come to Life

The Hermitage near Dunkeld made me feel like I’d stepped straight into a fantasy novel—and I swear the trees knew it. Towering Douglas firs surrounded us, their needles whispering overhead like they were swapping secrets about the strangers wandering below. And beneath our feet, a soft, rust-coloured carpet of leaves cushioned every step, debris from a recent storm.

We followed the path alongside the River Braan, the gentle rush of water somehow both calming and energizing at the same time. Sunbeams danced through the branches, creating a contrast of shimmering light and dark shadows, and even though plenty of people come here, it still felt like our own quiet escape.

When we reached Hermitage Bridge, a lovely single-arch stone pedestrian bridge spanning the river, Black Linn Falls suddenly revealed itself. We just stood there, taking it all in: the roar of the water, the spray misting the air, and the autumn colours bursting like confetti around us. It was one of those moments where you forget to talk and simply… breathe.

For a better look, we stepped into Ossian’s Hall—an 18th-century folly that looks like a mini temple tucked into the woods. It once had mirrors inside to make the water appear like it was pouring from every direction. Today, you push open glass doors to a viewing platform that delivers the full drama of the falls right in front of you…nature’s theatre at its finest.

As the afternoon light began to fade, golden hour brought a fresh brightness and crispness to the trail above the falls. The well trodden path shimmered in warm tones, the moss glowed vibrant green, and the distant roar of the water seemed to echo through the trees with renewed energy

It is hard to imagine this place was once a fancy pleasure garden for the Dukes of Atholl. Now, it feels like the forest has gently reclaimed it—while still welcoming wanderers like us to explore its enchanted corners. You won’t get lost forever… but you’ll definitely forget the real world for a while.

Falls of Bruar — The Path That Inspired a Poet

If Robert Burns thought the Falls of Bruar were worth writing about, we figured we had to see them too—and wow, did they ever live up to the legend. I’m not sure what he’d make of the House of Bruar shopping complex sitting at the trailhead today, but we didn’t linger long. This short yet steep trail promised fresh air and quiet moments in nature, and it delivered beautifully.

Much like the Hermitage, the pathways and bridges here were created by the Duke of Atholl to accentuate the natural drama of the waterfalls, winding through the woodlands of Atholl Estates. With the Bruar Water guiding us at every turn, the walk began gently, slipping through a tunnel under a railway bridge before quickly kicking up into a more spirited climb.

Approaching the lower bridge, the first falls revealed themselves in a rush of white water, tumbling energetically over jagged rocks through a narrow canyon. The trail here split into a loop, and, without much thought, we took the more vigorous left-hand route first. It rewarded us immediately—an expansive vantage of the bridge below, framed by the rugged gorge, before opening onto a wide, groomed path that offered sweeping views back across the rolling expanse of Glen Garry.

At the highest point of the trail, the upper bridge hides a delightfully quirky feature. Its stone wall is punctuated by openings, each cradling a single, perfectly centered stone. We weren’t sure of the purpose—perhaps purely decorative—but the effect was charming. We paused here, letting the scenery wash over us. The symphony of rushing water, whispering leaves, and the crisp Highland air wrapped around us like a natural embrace, and for a moment, there was no hurry to move on.

The return path led us down a narrower woodland trail, hugging the gorge with towering firs stretching overhead. Cascades flowing from beneath the upper bridge framed themselves between the trunks, with dappled light dancing on the calmer stretches of water, creating little pockets of magic at every turn.

Reaching the lower bridge once more, we were treated to a final spectacle: a waterfall spilling into a serene, crescent-shaped pool—a quiet, breathtaking punctuation to the walk.

A short hike, a big payoff, and a reminder that when Burns raved about a place, he knew what he was talking about.

Killiecrankie Pass — Beauty with a Battle Story

History lovers, this one’s for you—though honestly, anyone with a pulse will be blown away by Killiecrankie Pass. This narrow, dramatic gorge delivers some of the most jaw-dropping autumn colours we’ve seen anywhere in Scotland. With the A9 skimming high above and the massive railway viaduct alongside the River Garry below, you immediately sense how vital this route has been for centuries, funnelling through the divide between the Highlands and Lowlands.

From the visitor centre, the trail drops steeply toward the river, and while the path is a little treacherous in spots due to the uneven ground and wooden steps slick with a fresh quilt of fallen leaves, it’s still utterly enchanting. The air carried that unmistakable cool-weather mix of earth, moss, and musty forest floor, and the oak and aspen trees lining the trail were glowing in every shade of gold and amber imaginable. It felt like walking through a natural cathedral lit entirely by autumn.

But beneath all that beauty lies the grit of history. In 1689, the Pass of Killiecrankie was the scene of a fierce and bloody clash between Jacobite forces and government Redcoats. One of the most famous tales from that battle is the escape of soldier Donald McBane, who supposedly saved his own skin by leaping a staggering 5.5 metres (18 feet) across the gorge. Standing at “Soldier’s Leap” today, peering down into the chasm, it’s surreal trying to imagine making that jump in a literal life-or-death moment. The view alone raises your heart rate.

Downstream, the mood softens. The river slows, smoothing itself into quiet pools that mirror the fiery trees along the banks. Every reflection felt like a painted version of the landscape, slightly blurred and dreamlike.

The trail continues toward the Linn of Tummel, leading you past several dramatic viewpoints, especially from Garry Bridge, the perfect finale to our walk. The contrasts there were striking: to the north, the gorge wrapped in colour with the cone-shaped peak of Ben Vrackie rising above; to the south, the river calmed into a peaceful tableau where a lone fisherman stood waist-deep. And then, just to keep things interesting, adrenaline junkies were bungee jumping from a pod slung beneath the bridge—definitely braver souls than us!

From one man’s desperate leap for survival to modern thrill-seekers launching themselves into the gorge for fun, Killiecrankie Pass remains a place where history, landscape, and human spirit collide. And in autumn, when the entire pass bursts into colour, it truly comes alive.

Final Thoughts

Perthshire in autumn is pure magic—the kind that wraps you up in cozy colours and crisp air and makes you feel deeply, happily alive. Each trail offers its own blend of adventure, serenity, and history. If you’re dreaming of an autumn escape where every step feels like a postcard, Scotland’s Big Tree Country should be at the top of your list.